Hi all friends and peregrinos
While my next project is to do the same with my Via del Plata story, I hope soon to do the same with
This the North Camino walk
Note: To read from Chapter 1 click Blog Archive Sept 30
For Chapter 2 Blog Archive Oct 23 and so on
24th June
Santiago Compostela to Redondela
Cathy kindly phoned me in the morning to make sure I was awake to catch the train to Redondela. I then phoned Nieves, which I should have done at least the day before. Nieves said they would be out in the afternoon but if I could, ring back to see if we would be all able to meet this morning. I did ring back and Angel met me at the station in Redondela and kept me with him as we went round his jobs, and of course the bars where I met all his work mates. In one bar we ate elevas (not sure how to spell that but they are small ells) and razor shellfish and several other tapas. They were superb and I would probably never have found and tried these delicacies without such help from Angel. I was very subdued for me, I was still very tired, and very lethargic from last night’s revelry. I don’t know what they must have thought, at times I could hardly keep awake! We met up with their son and Nieves but Lara, their daughter, was at college in Santiago. I hoped to meet up when I returned but never did unfortunately. They took me to dinner where we each ate a very nice but huge fish with chips. We left the restaurant, the two men said goodbye and I now went with Nieves in her car and she kindly drove me to Redondela where she dropped me off outside the albergue.
We said a hurried goodbye as she had to park near the busy traffic island. The albergue didn’t open till five so I had a coffee nearby. The albergue was a superb spot in the centre of town in a very old building with part of it converted into an albergue and part as art room or what ever, and a reading library. There was only one chap and me there, he was South American, a really nice guy. He told me later, as we shared his wine downstairs in the kitchen, that he was travelling the opposite way to me, towards Portugal. I do so wish I had jotted down more about what he said as I only remember he made some very profound statements about the Caminos. Things like, it is the people you meet, not the camino itself that matters and the journey itself not the arriving, so going the opposite way didn’t matter.
25th June
Redondela to Caldas
In the morning I left him sleeping and I walked into town and went to a bar I had used the night before. Here I had a coffee and croissant for breakfast. I then set off back past the albergue and followed the arrows out of town. The track climbed up with lovely views of the estuary and it was quite fantastic all day, with glimpses of the sea and beautiful woodland. At one point, I was walking down a hill along a path through a thick wood.
I came round a bend in the track, which now widened out letting in the brilliant rays of the sun. The ground was covered in a carpet of rich green grass with a barrier of thick brambles down either side. A glossy coated, dark brown Guernsey cow, stood with a young maiden holding it on a short leading rope. It was like a glimpse out of Christmas Jack and the beanstalk pantomime. Jack was wearing a snow-white blouse, a short blue-green plaid mini skirt, nice legs and tight fitting calf length black Wellington boots. Young Jack (Jack is always a pretty girl in pantomime) was fondly patting the cows head and softly talking in its ear and was quite unaware of me until I got real close.
“Ola buenos días” I said, quite unable to grab out my camera and spoil the moment by taking a snap.
“Buenos días. El cuidad no es muy lejos, una hora mas señor” ‘Good day the city is only an hour away sir’ she told me without my having to ask.
“Gracias, bueno,”
I said stumbling for Spanish words, I smiled and nodded to her and walked on by, forgetting my lines! Forgetting to tell her, ‘Don’t sell that cow for just a handful of beans!’
Looking back now, I suppose she was probably not the brightest or cleverest of the village ladies. I now see her form of dress was much too young for her age, she might have been twenty-one or two. But I was quite touched at the time, I had seen the love as she’d patted that cow. There was no doubt in my mind she loved her job looking after that animal and would make sure it ate the best of the green grass, and was doing a fantastic job. I’m sure it gave the finest milk a cow can give. If only we could give all disabled minds such a chance at a useful occupation.
By the way she was wrong, I was still walking two hours later and hadn’t reached anywhere near a town.
Some brighter minds I’d found on the Camino would however often say something like that and I would be still be walking hours afterwards.
I walked for miles and along a number of small country lanes and I wanted a coffee. As I was leaving a village by a small country road, I could see the main road to my left. A small road joined the two roads and I thought I could see a big building that might possibly have a restaurant or café in it. I left the marked way and walked across to and a little way down the main road back towards the building and saw a peregrina was walking towards me. We stopped to chat, she was an Italian lass named Renate and was walking to Portugal, she had just left the café to set off again. We chatted and she agreed to return for a wine with me.
We got on well and swapped stories and laughed away a good hour, two wines, an orujo and a coffee. I was sorry when we had to leave and part in different directions. I had been walking all day without company. Renate said she would email when she got home and how she had ideas of going halfway down Portugal then cutting across to Seville, all against the arrows. She told me she had just walked back from Muxia and Fisterra with no problems.
“That same route nearly drove me mad when I did it last year” I said shaking my head, “Renate you obviously read maps better than I do, good luck and keep in touch if you can.”
We kissed on both cheeks and I watched her walk back down the lane I had recently arrived by, I then set off, sadly alone again. I can’t help but admire the guts of girls like that, I had met one last year too, sweet Mary from Canada. So far no email from either but that’s the Camino. I often wonder how Renate got on and where she went?
I carried on and I walked forty six kilometres that day and arrived very tired in Caldas. I asked a lady if she could recommend a fonda or hostel and she pointed across the road at a door with a blue sign with the familiar white F alongside it that I, in my tired state, had failed to see.
“It’s very good and cheap” she assured me.
I thanked her and walked across the road and looked at the bell. As usual there was a choice of buttons and as normal I tried two before getting a voice that understood I wanted a room. I was let in by a pleasant woman and taken up three floors and shown a choice of big bedrooms with two single beds in each. I took a room nearest the bathroom, as I often have to get up in the night. I did my washing and smartened myself up and went down to find a place to eat. I couldn’t find a cheap restaurant. The only place that appealed to me was a posh wine bar so I tried that. Here, perched on a barstool I drank two good glasses of red wine and ate two plates of fresh cooked tapas as my evening meal.
26th June
Caldas to Teo
It was a gentle walk mostly along small country roads and some interesting little villages but was rarely far from the main road. I walked what would be considered one and a half steps
that day because I wanted a short walk into Santiago the following day. The thing I remember about today was the time when I walked into a bar for coffee. I leaned my sticks against 
the wall near the bar and ordered and drank my coffee and then went to the loo. As I was returning a tall blond young woman in shorts came in to use the loo, she glanced at my sticks and hurried on past me. I picked up my gear and went out and another young woman sat at a table in the shade with the other’s rucksack next to her.
“Hi” I said and asked where they were heading and was soon in conversation with the girl. Somehow I got round to telling her about the four-leaf clovers that I had found. The other girl came out as I was showing them and I continued saying that I had saved the six leaf clover for my wife Maisie. We chatted for a while and they told me they would stop at the albergue at Teo. I then waved and moved off up the road saying I would probably see them later.
It was all main road but little traffic and I came down a hill and climbed the other side to about half way and the albergue stood back off the road. I walked up to it, a fairly modern building with nice big windows and glass doors. The only problem was they were locked. A phone number was on a paper notice pasted on the door, and it also said, call at the bar at the top of the hill. I decided a phone call that went via Australia would cost me and a walk up the hill wouldn’t. The two Danish girls arrived as I was about to leave, and both said they would look after my rucksack while I went to the bar. So off I went up the hill, and as stated at the top on the other side of the road stood the bar. Just as I was about to cross, a car come up the hill and pulled up in front of it and a chap got out. As I was crossing he came over to me and shook my hand and said it was good to see me, plus a lot more Spanish that in my bewildered state of mind I did not understand. I looked at him and for the life of me I could not remember him from anywhere, although the face did seem vaguely familiar. He turned and went back to the car, jumped in and drove off leaving me standing there with my mouth open. ‘Was he something to do with the albergue or what?’ I had no idea and went into the bar. Here were two men, one behind and one in front of the bar. I spoke to the chap behind it,
“I’m a peregrino I would like the key to the albergue.”
“Have you phoned about it?”
“No I came up here because the notice said you had it”
“I can’t let you in then.” He said shaking his head.
“There is not just me, there are two Danish women sitting outside waiting.”
“Sorry can’t give you the key unless you phone.”
I was tired I’d walked a long way today and I raised my voice and emphasised my words,
“But my phone call goes via Australia and I am here!!!!!”
“Can’t let you have the key unless you phone” he said calmly.
“Who have I got to phone, the man I just met outside?” I almost shouted.
Both men looked blank!
“Can’t let you have the key unless you phone” he said again.
“I give up what is the number of your phone?”
He turned round and looked at the phone and read out a number and I tapped it in.
“Ola” said a voice.
So the number was not the phone in front of me at least I thought.
“I am a peregrino, I am on my Australian mobile and there are three of us and we want the key to the albergue” I said trying hard to keep my voice calm.
“Que”?
“I am a peregrino! I am on my Australian mobile and there are three of us and we want the key to the albergue!” said loudly, getting even angrier.
“Where are you phoning from?”
“From your ….BAR at the top of the hill!” I said gritting my teeth.
“Ok put the barman on.”
I gave my mobile to the barman, after a long conversation in Spanish via Australia and back he returned the mobile phone back to me, and turned round and took the key that had hung from a hook over their phone all the time!
“Sorry couldn’t give it to you without phoning.”
I calmed down as he gave me the key, and offered me his hand.
I shook it,
“No problema.” said I, turning on my heel and walking out the door.
But who the hell was that guy in the car that spoke to me, I puzzled as I nursed my poor sore feet back down hill to the waiting girls?
Back at the albergue we went upstairs to see the accommodation and the two girls took beds at the far end of one dormitory and I the other room right near the door.
We had not a lot to eat so I offered to walk back up to the bar to see what I could get. The two men bought me a drink and apologised to me again. I was only able to buy three packets of crisps for the girls and a bottle of good red to share and something from the fridge. Back at the albergue we cooked up the food, me keeping my sausage (chorizo) separate from the rest as they were vegetarian and we shared the meal and polished off the bottle. While we were eating a couple of peregrinos arrived and by the gooey eyes they kept giving each other I gathered they were a new couple. On retiring to my bed I found they had taken a double berth at the rear of my dorm. After a while I grabbed my sack and slipped into the opposite dorm near the door to give them privacy.
27th June Teo to Santiago
We were up by 6.30 am. I made coffee and we left together and much of it was on the main road. But we seemed to have lost the arrows and after some distance I called to a chap in a car at the junction. He wasn’t going to stop until he spotted my tallest companions attractive long legs! The brakes went on and he soon put us right but it was still some way before we got back onto the track. Later on as we came down in towards Santiago and down to the outskirts of a village, we could see a man working on a bridge over a new motorway to our right. There were no signs at the junction and we were unsure which direction to take. I went straight on for a few yards and spotted an arrow. I waved to the girls to follow me and we wound our way through the narrow streets following yellow arrows and turned right, then right again and we came out alongside the motorway. The only way across was by the bridge. Yes, the one we had seen earlier, that was now twice the distance away than when we had first seen it. We walked along joking about the detour and how that workman on it must be laughing at us. As we were walking three abreast with me in the middle, The tall one spotted the first trap just in time. If we had been walking along less observant I would have suddenly vanished down a ten-foot deep manhole with no lid.
“A peregrino mantrap,” I joked “Left over from last year, to thin out the enormous numbers of peregrinos coming into the city on a religious year. Pretty efficient at getting rid of late comers when the sun goes down.”
“So that is why they sent us round that way! Must cut down the numbers considerably, save a lot of ink stamping credentials.” laughed the cute girl on my other side.
“That guy on the bridge must be the lookout, to count how many they catch” quipped the other.
I think the pair of them were now steering me towards the next one, just to see if they worked or not!
We were about to cross over the bridge and the man disappeared, so we were not able to ask where the track went or how many peregrinos had they caught. We turned left parallel to the motorway. Soon we found an arrow turning right approximately opposite the road we had come out of the village by on the other side of the motorway. Obviously the motorway had cut the track and the arrows had not been altered. We descended some steps and passed a very old fountain with two figures carved on stone at the back, but sadly the heads had been knocked off. From here we came into the town but I still never recognised any streets from this way. There was a café as we climbed a small hill, so we stopped for coffee and beers and afterwards set off into town. We came out of a street near the plaza, which was close to my previous lodgings, so from here I knew the way, and we walked to the Plaza del Obradoiro. Once again I stood on the shell and we took photos of each other and got a chap to take one of us all together. 
I had not walked anywhere near so far this time but it was still very moving for me and especially so for the two girls who had never done it before. We walked over and climbed the steps and entered the cathedral main door and once again I risked my hands in the lion’s mouth and touched the pillar above and hugged the Santo again. The incense burner swung this time 
and we left by the side door to find a place to eat.
I could not find my favourite place and now believe it is only open in the late afternoon or evening, so we went further on and found one on the corner and here we ate tapas. Later we went up to get our credentials stamped but they would not stamp mine. I had only walked ninety-five kilometres and it has to be a hundred and twenty I think, but I might have got away with a hundred she said! As it was, I was not worried as I hope one day to earn another one properly by doing the whole walk up through Portugal. We went from here to find a room at the Inn! My room was saved ok and the landlady had one upstairs for the two girls. Having cleaned up and done the washing, I solved yesterday’s mystery of the car driver who had spoken to me outside the bar.
I walked into the Internet shop to email Maisie, the proprietor stood up as I asked for a booth again!
¿“Ola que tal peregrino? ¿Cómo va su viaje? ” said my mystery man!
After emailing I returned and met the two girls again.
“How’s your room” I inquired.
The cute one fell about laughing describing the giggling long legged companion laying on her back on the sagging mattress, folded nearly double with her bum near to the floor and with her long legs sticking up in the air and feet well over the end of the short Spanish bed.
Now I don’t know about you but my imagination ran wild and I joined in their laughter, these two girls knew how to make the best out of any situation.
We went out again to see the town and eat. We were plastered, or I should say I was, when we returned to walk past the hostel bar at the top of the street at about twelve o’clock I think. We saw the light on and the dueña standing near the bar inside. She had asked us to eat there earlier with a wedding group but I had said the girls were vegetarian so we were sorry but would eat lettuce in the town! Now we went in to say we would like breakfast in the morning. The two girls kindly said they both wanted to see me off, probably to make sure I left!
“Ok no problem, we will be open, what do you want to drink now.” asked the dueña.
I had a beer I think, but I do remember the two girls asked for white wine. The dueña promptly tipped a good half bottle in a big glass and put it in front of them.
“That will help.” she said looking at me.
We laughed like hell, because the two girls understood enough Spanish to know what she meant. They drank it between them and we staggered out laughing arm in arm. Now we searched for the number over the doors as we went down the street. I found it and took out the key and with some fumbling opened the door to the staircase and eventually found the light switch. With me in front we climbed the stairs to the first floor. I searched for the right key again, this time for my hall door and inserted it. They were saying good night to me and thanking me for the good time we had had when suddenly the light went out. One girl hit a glowing button in the dark, Buzz! It was the doorbell! Well we had been trying to not make a noise but now the giggles were getting very loud. I’d better try, I thought. Buzz! Went the bell again. Oh well done, I’d hit the same button. Now everyone would be awake
“Shush!!!!!” We all giggled together while they sort of propped me up.
I groped around the wall and found a switch. Light flooded the staircase again. Well now we could see.
I kissed them both on both cheeks and they climbed the stairs to the next floor and to their hall door. I waited till I heard it open. ‘The dueña bar lady would never believe this’ I thought smiling to myself as I turned the key.
“Ok! Goodnight, see you in the morning” they called back down.
“Goodnight” said I, never dreaming they would make it for breakfast as I pushed open the door and removed the key and with difficulty inserted the third key in my bedroom door.
‘They might not get up early but I must! I’ve got to be up early enough to buy my ticket and catch the train to Irun and the French boarder at nine a.m. I haven’t an alarm to set or a Cathy to phone me this time,’ I worried, as I undressed and put my clothes in the wash bag and got out clean ones for the morning.
I put things I wouldn’t need and didn’t want any more in the waste bin. Shouldn’t take to long to get packed and out in the morning, I hoped, as I pulled the covers over and fell asleep, and slept like a log.
28t h June
Santiago to France
I awoke to a loud cow mooing, Ugg! ‘Bloody noise,’ I muttered realising it was a neighbours cow alarm! I looked at my watch yes, time to get up. Well better that noise than some of the sounds I had heard through the thin walls during the nights of last week! I pulled on my trousers and dived into the bathroom down the hall first, beating the man with the cowbell. Back again I packed my bag for the last time and left the key on the side table, took a last look round my small but cosy little room and went down. It was raining hard as I went up the street to the bar! The dueña wasn’t there only her husband. I sat eating my breakfast when my two pretty friends arrived shaking off the rain as they came in. They had arrived, just as they had said they would! I felt quite touched, two young ladies to see an old fellow like me off home. We chatted and I told them to have a look at the monastery of San Martin and other things and places I had not had time to show them. Time flew and I gave them both a hug and waved goodbye and stepped out into the pouring rain. It eased a bit as I went on my way to the station. I realised suddenly I must concentrate and not let my mind wander over all what had happened over these last two months, as I now found myse
lf wandering down a wrong street. I turned right at the bottom and soon arrived at the station and bought my ticket. There were a number of kids and grownups waiting, dressed in brown wide brimmed peregrino hats with shells on and carrying shiny varnished new staffs, extremely dangerous things in the hands of a child I noticed. Probably walking to the station had been the longest distance achieved by these peregrinos I thought, dodging a staff swung by one excited child. I walked out onto the platform as the train pulled in, showed my ticket to a guard just to make sure I was getting on the right carriage and climbed aboard my first train heading towards home. I found my seat and sat there, watching the rain dribble at an angle across the windowpane and I couldn’t believe it was over.
I now look back and think of those two Danish girls and remember their English, good English, but not perfect English and smiled to myself, what charming company they were.
I remember one girl telling me that her tall friend had found a four leaf clover, and later as they came up to the bar and had looked across the road and seen a building with a four-leaf clover carved on the façade. Then how she had walked into the bar and seen my stick with the clover carved on it. As she’d come out she’d heard me talking with her friend about clovers.
I think it better that I quote the email sent to me when they returned to Denmark.
Her letter read:
We Danes are back in Denmark after a great and AMAZING walking trip!!!!
I have spent most of my time on my return in my garden; after three weeks away my ecological garden is like a jungle - a beautiful jungle. People with short legs like you and me disappear among the vegetables and flowers and fruit trees. (Authors note; Those long legs, very attractive long legs and she is very tall compared to me)
I have really enjoyed to eat my own gourmet vegetarian food filled with fresh herbs (after that Spanish food…) Actually I’m a witch - used to a lot of herbs… so it was very strange to end in Galicia, the country of the witches…. I did not know that the pilgrim’s goal was in the witches Country. I saw you as a guide (angel) for us, who gave us the possibility to get the most out of Santiago de Compostela and from the peregrino and peregrina rituals. Thank you very much!!! It was funny, it was moving, it was incredible, amazing… that day in Santiago.
The next day we went the church and the monastery you had talked about, San Martín Pinario, and in spite you were not there, you really guided me directly to an old incarnation, in the monastery museum, up under the roof, there was an old farmacia..…(a chemist work shop). I was really in contact with a very, very old life; a very moving feeling, a very old sorrow, and I don’t know yet, what the message is for me, but I just know it is something very important for the rest of my life. Something I have to get rid of, to act on myself, or to be in at the present time. Thank you very much!!! We wouldn’t have gone to the place with out your guiding.
A beautiful church and a lot of my special symbol inside it, a deep experience.
And it is important for me to tell you that you had some deeper influence. The right person at the right place at the right time… without any intentions or wishes or demands to help, but it just happens. Another strange thing was that I at first, when we met thought that a clover in English was called Maisie. You said probably Amazing about the clovers as we talked about them at the café the first time we met, and I heard A Maisie. Well, there are flowers called Daisies, so why not clovers called Maisie’s???? So the strange thing is that your wife’s name is Maisie!!! Have a good time. A lot of greetings to you and Maisie
A hug from Denmark
Another Email from Luke, the first Peregrino I ever met from my first Camino. He asked me what was the best camino and who the most interesting person.
What difficult questions.
My reply went something like this.
There are the pretty ones that sweep an old man off his feet, like Reyes, Mary Cruz of Galistero, Lisa, Patricia, these two charming Danish ladies. There are others too that are just as charming. People that are interested in you and the things you do, like Nieves y her family, Antonia, Yvonne, Brigitte, Mari Cruz of Cordoba, Bernadette, Vigi, Cathy and Marie.
Some men become really good mates like Martin, Biel, Reinhard, Jacques, Nic, Philippe, Piero, Vicente, Paco, Miguel and yourself, (Luke) Mind you there is no pigeon hole that fits you. You are a puzzle but that is half your charm. There are many others, some that I have lost track of. I know that many of them I will sadly never see again.
I
have managed at
last to get the last part of my Via del Plata walk - from Santiago
to Fisterra, then on to Muxia
and back to Santiago - onto the Amazon Books pages.
You can 'Look Inside' them to see an excerpt on line
and order a copy from them. If you are in Australia you may email me.
Here are
the links:
Amazon Spain:
(There's no 'Look Inside' available on this page)
Fisterra
- MuxiaWhile my next project is to do the same with my Via del Plata story, I hope soon to do the same with
This the North Camino walk
Note: To read from Chapter 1 click Blog Archive Sept 30
For Chapter 2 Blog Archive Oct 23 and so on
24th June
Santiago Compostela to Redondela
Cathy kindly phoned me in the morning to make sure I was awake to catch the train to Redondela. I then phoned Nieves, which I should have done at least the day before. Nieves said they would be out in the afternoon but if I could, ring back to see if we would be all able to meet this morning. I did ring back and Angel met me at the station in Redondela and kept me with him as we went round his jobs, and of course the bars where I met all his work mates. In one bar we ate elevas (not sure how to spell that but they are small ells) and razor shellfish and several other tapas. They were superb and I would probably never have found and tried these delicacies without such help from Angel. I was very subdued for me, I was still very tired, and very lethargic from last night’s revelry. I don’t know what they must have thought, at times I could hardly keep awake! We met up with their son and Nieves but Lara, their daughter, was at college in Santiago. I hoped to meet up when I returned but never did unfortunately. They took me to dinner where we each ate a very nice but huge fish with chips. We left the restaurant, the two men said goodbye and I now went with Nieves in her car and she kindly drove me to Redondela where she dropped me off outside the albergue.
We said a hurried goodbye as she had to park near the busy traffic island. The albergue didn’t open till five so I had a coffee nearby. The albergue was a superb spot in the centre of town in a very old building with part of it converted into an albergue and part as art room or what ever, and a reading library. There was only one chap and me there, he was South American, a really nice guy. He told me later, as we shared his wine downstairs in the kitchen, that he was travelling the opposite way to me, towards Portugal. I do so wish I had jotted down more about what he said as I only remember he made some very profound statements about the Caminos. Things like, it is the people you meet, not the camino itself that matters and the journey itself not the arriving, so going the opposite way didn’t matter.25th June
Redondela to Caldas
In the morning I left him sleeping and I walked into town and went to a bar I had used the night before. Here I had a coffee and croissant for breakfast. I then set off back past the albergue and followed the arrows out of town. The track climbed up with lovely views of the estuary and it was quite fantastic all day, with glimpses of the sea and beautiful woodland. At one point, I was walking down a hill along a path through a thick wood.
I came round a bend in the track, which now widened out letting in the brilliant rays of the sun. The ground was covered in a carpet of rich green grass with a barrier of thick brambles down either side. A glossy coated, dark brown Guernsey cow, stood with a young maiden holding it on a short leading rope. It was like a glimpse out of Christmas Jack and the beanstalk pantomime. Jack was wearing a snow-white blouse, a short blue-green plaid mini skirt, nice legs and tight fitting calf length black Wellington boots. Young Jack (Jack is always a pretty girl in pantomime) was fondly patting the cows head and softly talking in its ear and was quite unaware of me until I got real close.“Ola buenos días” I said, quite unable to grab out my camera and spoil the moment by taking a snap.
“Buenos días. El cuidad no es muy lejos, una hora mas señor” ‘Good day the city is only an hour away sir’ she told me without my having to ask.
“Gracias, bueno,”
I said stumbling for Spanish words, I smiled and nodded to her and walked on by, forgetting my lines! Forgetting to tell her, ‘Don’t sell that cow for just a handful of beans!’
Looking back now, I suppose she was probably not the brightest or cleverest of the village ladies. I now see her form of dress was much too young for her age, she might have been twenty-one or two. But I was quite touched at the time, I had seen the love as she’d patted that cow. There was no doubt in my mind she loved her job looking after that animal and would make sure it ate the best of the green grass, and was doing a fantastic job. I’m sure it gave the finest milk a cow can give. If only we could give all disabled minds such a chance at a useful occupation.
By the way she was wrong, I was still walking two hours later and hadn’t reached anywhere near a town.
Some brighter minds I’d found on the Camino would however often say something like that and I would be still be walking hours afterwards.
I walked for miles and along a number of small country lanes and I wanted a coffee. As I was leaving a village by a small country road, I could see the main road to my left. A small road joined the two roads and I thought I could see a big building that might possibly have a restaurant or café in it. I left the marked way and walked across to and a little way down the main road back towards the building and saw a peregrina was walking towards me. We stopped to chat, she was an Italian lass named Renate and was walking to Portugal, she had just left the café to set off again. We chatted and she agreed to return for a wine with me.
We got on well and swapped stories and laughed away a good hour, two wines, an orujo and a coffee. I was sorry when we had to leave and part in different directions. I had been walking all day without company. Renate said she would email when she got home and how she had ideas of going halfway down Portugal then cutting across to Seville, all against the arrows. She told me she had just walked back from Muxia and Fisterra with no problems.
“That same route nearly drove me mad when I did it last year” I said shaking my head, “Renate you obviously read maps better than I do, good luck and keep in touch if you can.”
We kissed on both cheeks and I watched her walk back down the lane I had recently arrived by, I then set off, sadly alone again. I can’t help but admire the guts of girls like that, I had met one last year too, sweet Mary from Canada. So far no email from either but that’s the Camino. I often wonder how Renate got on and where she went?
I carried on and I walked forty six kilometres that day and arrived very tired in Caldas. I asked a lady if she could recommend a fonda or hostel and she pointed across the road at a door with a blue sign with the familiar white F alongside it that I, in my tired state, had failed to see.
“It’s very good and cheap” she assured me.
I thanked her and walked across the road and looked at the bell. As usual there was a choice of buttons and as normal I tried two before getting a voice that understood I wanted a room. I was let in by a pleasant woman and taken up three floors and shown a choice of big bedrooms with two single beds in each. I took a room nearest the bathroom, as I often have to get up in the night. I did my washing and smartened myself up and went down to find a place to eat. I couldn’t find a cheap restaurant. The only place that appealed to me was a posh wine bar so I tried that. Here, perched on a barstool I drank two good glasses of red wine and ate two plates of fresh cooked tapas as my evening meal.
26th June
Caldas to Teo
It was a gentle walk mostly along small country roads and some interesting little villages but was rarely far from the main road. I walked what would be considered one and a half steps
that day because I wanted a short walk into Santiago the following day. The thing I remember about today was the time when I walked into a bar for coffee. I leaned my sticks against 
the wall near the bar and ordered and drank my coffee and then went to the loo. As I was returning a tall blond young woman in shorts came in to use the loo, she glanced at my sticks and hurried on past me. I picked up my gear and went out and another young woman sat at a table in the shade with the other’s rucksack next to her.“Hi” I said and asked where they were heading and was soon in conversation with the girl. Somehow I got round to telling her about the four-leaf clovers that I had found. The other girl came out as I was showing them and I continued saying that I had saved the six leaf clover for my wife Maisie. We chatted for a while and they told me they would stop at the albergue at Teo. I then waved and moved off up the road saying I would probably see them later.
It was all main road but little traffic and I came down a hill and climbed the other side to about half way and the albergue stood back off the road. I walked up to it, a fairly modern building with nice big windows and glass doors. The only problem was they were locked. A phone number was on a paper notice pasted on the door, and it also said, call at the bar at the top of the hill. I decided a phone call that went via Australia would cost me and a walk up the hill wouldn’t. The two Danish girls arrived as I was about to leave, and both said they would look after my rucksack while I went to the bar. So off I went up the hill, and as stated at the top on the other side of the road stood the bar. Just as I was about to cross, a car come up the hill and pulled up in front of it and a chap got out. As I was crossing he came over to me and shook my hand and said it was good to see me, plus a lot more Spanish that in my bewildered state of mind I did not understand. I looked at him and for the life of me I could not remember him from anywhere, although the face did seem vaguely familiar. He turned and went back to the car, jumped in and drove off leaving me standing there with my mouth open. ‘Was he something to do with the albergue or what?’ I had no idea and went into the bar. Here were two men, one behind and one in front of the bar. I spoke to the chap behind it,
“I’m a peregrino I would like the key to the albergue.”
“Have you phoned about it?”
“No I came up here because the notice said you had it”
“I can’t let you in then.” He said shaking his head.
“There is not just me, there are two Danish women sitting outside waiting.”
“Sorry can’t give you the key unless you phone.”
I was tired I’d walked a long way today and I raised my voice and emphasised my words,
“But my phone call goes via Australia and I am here!!!!!”
“Can’t let you have the key unless you phone” he said calmly.
“Who have I got to phone, the man I just met outside?” I almost shouted.
Both men looked blank!
“Can’t let you have the key unless you phone” he said again.
“I give up what is the number of your phone?”
He turned round and looked at the phone and read out a number and I tapped it in.
“Ola” said a voice.
So the number was not the phone in front of me at least I thought.
“I am a peregrino, I am on my Australian mobile and there are three of us and we want the key to the albergue” I said trying hard to keep my voice calm.
“Que”?
“I am a peregrino! I am on my Australian mobile and there are three of us and we want the key to the albergue!” said loudly, getting even angrier.
“Where are you phoning from?”
“From your ….BAR at the top of the hill!” I said gritting my teeth.
“Ok put the barman on.”
I gave my mobile to the barman, after a long conversation in Spanish via Australia and back he returned the mobile phone back to me, and turned round and took the key that had hung from a hook over their phone all the time!
“Sorry couldn’t give it to you without phoning.”
I calmed down as he gave me the key, and offered me his hand.
I shook it,
“No problema.” said I, turning on my heel and walking out the door.
But who the hell was that guy in the car that spoke to me, I puzzled as I nursed my poor sore feet back down hill to the waiting girls?
Back at the albergue we went upstairs to see the accommodation and the two girls took beds at the far end of one dormitory and I the other room right near the door.
We had not a lot to eat so I offered to walk back up to the bar to see what I could get. The two men bought me a drink and apologised to me again. I was only able to buy three packets of crisps for the girls and a bottle of good red to share and something from the fridge. Back at the albergue we cooked up the food, me keeping my sausage (chorizo) separate from the rest as they were vegetarian and we shared the meal and polished off the bottle. While we were eating a couple of peregrinos arrived and by the gooey eyes they kept giving each other I gathered they were a new couple. On retiring to my bed I found they had taken a double berth at the rear of my dorm. After a while I grabbed my sack and slipped into the opposite dorm near the door to give them privacy.
27th June Teo to Santiago
We were up by 6.30 am. I made coffee and we left together and much of it was on the main road. But we seemed to have lost the arrows and after some distance I called to a chap in a car at the junction. He wasn’t going to stop until he spotted my tallest companions attractive long legs! The brakes went on and he soon put us right but it was still some way before we got back onto the track. Later on as we came down in towards Santiago and down to the outskirts of a village, we could see a man working on a bridge over a new motorway to our right. There were no signs at the junction and we were unsure which direction to take. I went straight on for a few yards and spotted an arrow. I waved to the girls to follow me and we wound our way through the narrow streets following yellow arrows and turned right, then right again and we came out alongside the motorway. The only way across was by the bridge. Yes, the one we had seen earlier, that was now twice the distance away than when we had first seen it. We walked along joking about the detour and how that workman on it must be laughing at us. As we were walking three abreast with me in the middle, The tall one spotted the first trap just in time. If we had been walking along less observant I would have suddenly vanished down a ten-foot deep manhole with no lid.
“A peregrino mantrap,” I joked “Left over from last year, to thin out the enormous numbers of peregrinos coming into the city on a religious year. Pretty efficient at getting rid of late comers when the sun goes down.”
“So that is why they sent us round that way! Must cut down the numbers considerably, save a lot of ink stamping credentials.” laughed the cute girl on my other side.
“That guy on the bridge must be the lookout, to count how many they catch” quipped the other.
I think the pair of them were now steering me towards the next one, just to see if they worked or not!
We were about to cross over the bridge and the man disappeared, so we were not able to ask where the track went or how many peregrinos had they caught. We turned left parallel to the motorway. Soon we found an arrow turning right approximately opposite the road we had come out of the village by on the other side of the motorway. Obviously the motorway had cut the track and the arrows had not been altered. We descended some steps and passed a very old fountain with two figures carved on stone at the back, but sadly the heads had been knocked off. From here we came into the town but I still never recognised any streets from this way. There was a café as we climbed a small hill, so we stopped for coffee and beers and afterwards set off into town. We came out of a street near the plaza, which was close to my previous lodgings, so from here I knew the way, and we walked to the Plaza del Obradoiro. Once again I stood on the shell and we took photos of each other and got a chap to take one of us all together. 
I had not walked anywhere near so far this time but it was still very moving for me and especially so for the two girls who had never done it before. We walked over and climbed the steps and entered the cathedral main door and once again I risked my hands in the lion’s mouth and touched the pillar above and hugged the Santo again. The incense burner swung this time 
and we left by the side door to find a place to eat.I could not find my favourite place and now believe it is only open in the late afternoon or evening, so we went further on and found one on the corner and here we ate tapas. Later we went up to get our credentials stamped but they would not stamp mine. I had only walked ninety-five kilometres and it has to be a hundred and twenty I think, but I might have got away with a hundred she said! As it was, I was not worried as I hope one day to earn another one properly by doing the whole walk up through Portugal. We went from here to find a room at the Inn! My room was saved ok and the landlady had one upstairs for the two girls. Having cleaned up and done the washing, I solved yesterday’s mystery of the car driver who had spoken to me outside the bar.
I walked into the Internet shop to email Maisie, the proprietor stood up as I asked for a booth again!
¿“Ola que tal peregrino? ¿Cómo va su viaje? ” said my mystery man!
After emailing I returned and met the two girls again.
“How’s your room” I inquired.
The cute one fell about laughing describing the giggling long legged companion laying on her back on the sagging mattress, folded nearly double with her bum near to the floor and with her long legs sticking up in the air and feet well over the end of the short Spanish bed.
Now I don’t know about you but my imagination ran wild and I joined in their laughter, these two girls knew how to make the best out of any situation.
We went out again to see the town and eat. We were plastered, or I should say I was, when we returned to walk past the hostel bar at the top of the street at about twelve o’clock I think. We saw the light on and the dueña standing near the bar inside. She had asked us to eat there earlier with a wedding group but I had said the girls were vegetarian so we were sorry but would eat lettuce in the town! Now we went in to say we would like breakfast in the morning. The two girls kindly said they both wanted to see me off, probably to make sure I left!
“Ok no problem, we will be open, what do you want to drink now.” asked the dueña.
I had a beer I think, but I do remember the two girls asked for white wine. The dueña promptly tipped a good half bottle in a big glass and put it in front of them.
“That will help.” she said looking at me.
We laughed like hell, because the two girls understood enough Spanish to know what she meant. They drank it between them and we staggered out laughing arm in arm. Now we searched for the number over the doors as we went down the street. I found it and took out the key and with some fumbling opened the door to the staircase and eventually found the light switch. With me in front we climbed the stairs to the first floor. I searched for the right key again, this time for my hall door and inserted it. They were saying good night to me and thanking me for the good time we had had when suddenly the light went out. One girl hit a glowing button in the dark, Buzz! It was the doorbell! Well we had been trying to not make a noise but now the giggles were getting very loud. I’d better try, I thought. Buzz! Went the bell again. Oh well done, I’d hit the same button. Now everyone would be awake
“Shush!!!!!” We all giggled together while they sort of propped me up.
I groped around the wall and found a switch. Light flooded the staircase again. Well now we could see.
I kissed them both on both cheeks and they climbed the stairs to the next floor and to their hall door. I waited till I heard it open. ‘The dueña bar lady would never believe this’ I thought smiling to myself as I turned the key.
“Ok! Goodnight, see you in the morning” they called back down.
“Goodnight” said I, never dreaming they would make it for breakfast as I pushed open the door and removed the key and with difficulty inserted the third key in my bedroom door.
‘They might not get up early but I must! I’ve got to be up early enough to buy my ticket and catch the train to Irun and the French boarder at nine a.m. I haven’t an alarm to set or a Cathy to phone me this time,’ I worried, as I undressed and put my clothes in the wash bag and got out clean ones for the morning.
I put things I wouldn’t need and didn’t want any more in the waste bin. Shouldn’t take to long to get packed and out in the morning, I hoped, as I pulled the covers over and fell asleep, and slept like a log.
28t h June
Santiago to France
I awoke to a loud cow mooing, Ugg! ‘Bloody noise,’ I muttered realising it was a neighbours cow alarm! I looked at my watch yes, time to get up. Well better that noise than some of the sounds I had heard through the thin walls during the nights of last week! I pulled on my trousers and dived into the bathroom down the hall first, beating the man with the cowbell. Back again I packed my bag for the last time and left the key on the side table, took a last look round my small but cosy little room and went down. It was raining hard as I went up the street to the bar! The dueña wasn’t there only her husband. I sat eating my breakfast when my two pretty friends arrived shaking off the rain as they came in. They had arrived, just as they had said they would! I felt quite touched, two young ladies to see an old fellow like me off home. We chatted and I told them to have a look at the monastery of San Martin and other things and places I had not had time to show them. Time flew and I gave them both a hug and waved goodbye and stepped out into the pouring rain. It eased a bit as I went on my way to the station. I realised suddenly I must concentrate and not let my mind wander over all what had happened over these last two months, as I now found myse
lf wandering down a wrong street. I turned right at the bottom and soon arrived at the station and bought my ticket. There were a number of kids and grownups waiting, dressed in brown wide brimmed peregrino hats with shells on and carrying shiny varnished new staffs, extremely dangerous things in the hands of a child I noticed. Probably walking to the station had been the longest distance achieved by these peregrinos I thought, dodging a staff swung by one excited child. I walked out onto the platform as the train pulled in, showed my ticket to a guard just to make sure I was getting on the right carriage and climbed aboard my first train heading towards home. I found my seat and sat there, watching the rain dribble at an angle across the windowpane and I couldn’t believe it was over.
I now look back and think of those two Danish girls and remember their English, good English, but not perfect English and smiled to myself, what charming company they were.
I remember one girl telling me that her tall friend had found a four leaf clover, and later as they came up to the bar and had looked across the road and seen a building with a four-leaf clover carved on the façade. Then how she had walked into the bar and seen my stick with the clover carved on it. As she’d come out she’d heard me talking with her friend about clovers.
I think it better that I quote the email sent to me when they returned to Denmark.
Her letter read:
We Danes are back in Denmark after a great and AMAZING walking trip!!!!
I have spent most of my time on my return in my garden; after three weeks away my ecological garden is like a jungle - a beautiful jungle. People with short legs like you and me disappear among the vegetables and flowers and fruit trees. (Authors note; Those long legs, very attractive long legs and she is very tall compared to me)
I have really enjoyed to eat my own gourmet vegetarian food filled with fresh herbs (after that Spanish food…) Actually I’m a witch - used to a lot of herbs… so it was very strange to end in Galicia, the country of the witches…. I did not know that the pilgrim’s goal was in the witches Country. I saw you as a guide (angel) for us, who gave us the possibility to get the most out of Santiago de Compostela and from the peregrino and peregrina rituals. Thank you very much!!! It was funny, it was moving, it was incredible, amazing… that day in Santiago.
The next day we went the church and the monastery you had talked about, San Martín Pinario, and in spite you were not there, you really guided me directly to an old incarnation, in the monastery museum, up under the roof, there was an old farmacia..…(a chemist work shop). I was really in contact with a very, very old life; a very moving feeling, a very old sorrow, and I don’t know yet, what the message is for me, but I just know it is something very important for the rest of my life. Something I have to get rid of, to act on myself, or to be in at the present time. Thank you very much!!! We wouldn’t have gone to the place with out your guiding.
A beautiful church and a lot of my special symbol inside it, a deep experience.
And it is important for me to tell you that you had some deeper influence. The right person at the right place at the right time… without any intentions or wishes or demands to help, but it just happens. Another strange thing was that I at first, when we met thought that a clover in English was called Maisie. You said probably Amazing about the clovers as we talked about them at the café the first time we met, and I heard A Maisie. Well, there are flowers called Daisies, so why not clovers called Maisie’s???? So the strange thing is that your wife’s name is Maisie!!! Have a good time. A lot of greetings to you and Maisie
A hug from Denmark
Another Email from Luke, the first Peregrino I ever met from my first Camino. He asked me what was the best camino and who the most interesting person.
What difficult questions.
My reply went something like this.
There are the pretty ones that sweep an old man off his feet, like Reyes, Mary Cruz of Galistero, Lisa, Patricia, these two charming Danish ladies. There are others too that are just as charming. People that are interested in you and the things you do, like Nieves y her family, Antonia, Yvonne, Brigitte, Mari Cruz of Cordoba, Bernadette, Vigi, Cathy and Marie.
Some men become really good mates like Martin, Biel, Reinhard, Jacques, Nic, Philippe, Piero, Vicente, Paco, Miguel and yourself, (Luke) Mind you there is no pigeon hole that fits you. You are a puzzle but that is half your charm. There are many others, some that I have lost track of. I know that many of them I will sadly never see again.
